5.1 This test method for the determination of cohesion in sliver, roving, or top in dynamic tests may be used for the acceptance testing of commercial shipments but caution is advised since information on between-laboratory precision is lacking. Comparative tests as directed in 5.1.1 may be advisable.5.1.1 If there are differences or practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more), comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, test samples that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the material from which the disparate test results were obtained, and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The test results from the two laboratories should be compare using a statistical test for unpaired data, at a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.5.2 The cohesive forces overcome in continuous drafting of slivers, rovings, or tops are affected by surface lubricants and such fiber properties as linear density, surface configuration, fiber length, fiber crimp, and fiber-frictional characteristics.5.2.1 The concept of drafting is one of the most important principles in the production of yarn from fibrous raw stock.5.2.2 The values of force to maintain drafting determined by this method are induced by mechanical means similar to those used in textile processing.5.2.3 The attenuation of textile fiber strands while in motion closely approximates actual textile processing conditions, and the relative values of force may be used to predict processing behaviors.5.3 Fiber cohesion is affected by the alignment of fiber in the textile strand and strand compaction in addition to the factors listed in 5.2. Although fibers are more nearly aligned in draw sliver than in card sliver, the draw sliver is more compact. Thus, for a given production run, the drafting forces are higher for draw sliver than for card sliver.5.4 In addition to the aforementioned effects on drafting forces, the direction of specimen movement through drafting rollers may give different drafting force. Fibers in slivers may have hooks of varying severity at one or both ends. Passage through drafting rollers results in higher drafting forces when the predominance of fiber hooks are oriented in the trailing mode of the strand.1.1 This test method describes the measurement of fiber cohesion as the dynamic cohesive force required to maintain drafting in rovings, slivers or tops when they are subjected to stress induced by passing between pairs of drafting rolls of different surface speeds. The cohesive force is converted to cohesive tenacity based on the linear density of the material.NOTE 1: For static tests refer to Test Method D2612.1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.1.3 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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5.1 This test method is not recommended for the acceptance testing of commercial shipments of wool top, card sliver, or scoured wool since the referee method, Test Method D2130, is recommended for that purpose. Although this test method is not recommended for acceptance testing, it is useful for fast quality control checks.5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more), comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative test that are as homogenous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.5.2 The specific area of the wool fibers is measured by the resistance in air flow. The resistance to air flow has been related to average fiber diameter measured by the microprojection method. The instruments have been calibrated to read average diameter in micrometres. Although the reading is affected by the average fiber diameter distribution of the specimen, the results secured by the instruments give no indication of this distribution. However, in converting the micrometres reading to millitex units (Annex A1), low, medium, and high standard deviations were used in the calculations to arrive at the range of millitex units which accordingly reflect the distribution of fiber diameters.1.1 This test method covers the estimation of the average fiber diameter of wool fibers by use of the Port-Ar and the WIRA Fiber Fineness Meter instrument, which operate on the air-flow principle. Other air-flow instruments have not been tested with this method. The method is directly applicable to non-medullated, carded wool and wool top.1.2 This test method is applicable to grease wool and scoured wool after the samples of such materials have been prepared as directed in Test Method D2130.NOTE 1: The use of the Micronaire instrument for measuring the fineness of cotton fibers is covered in Test Method D1448. The assignment of grade for wool and mohair is covered in Specifications D3991 and D3992.1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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5.1 Fiber cohesion is related to the resistance to drafting encountered during textile processing and is affected by such fiber properties as surface lubrication, linear density, surface configuration, fiber length, and crimp.5.2 Fiber cohesion is affected by the alignment of fiber in sliver in addition to the factors listed in 5.1. A half turn of twist in a 140-mm specimen has been found to increase the breaking force by 30 % and a full turn by 60 %. For this reason, care must be exercised in precise mounting of specimens.5.3 For the same reason given in 5.2, card sliver gives a different breaking tenacity than draw sliver of the same fiber. Fibers are more aligned in draw sliver, resulting in lower cohesion.5.4 Increasing the gage length of test specimens reduces the breaking force and apparent cohesion.5.5 The mathematical relationship between the observed value for breaking tenacity and processability has not been established, but the observed values can be used in comparing various fiber characteristics on a relative basis.5.6 This method for measuring fiber cohesion in sliver or top (static tests) is not recommended for acceptance testing because it is an empirical method which must be followed explicitly. Results obtained under other conditions cannot be expected to be comparable.5.6.1 In some cases, the purchaser and the supplier may have to test a commercial shipment of one or more specific materials by the best available method, even though the method has not been recommended for acceptance testing of commercial shipments. In case of dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using this test method for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and supplier should conduct comparative tests to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens, which are as homogeneous as possible and which are from a lot of material of the type in question. Test specimens then should be randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using appropriate statistical analysis and a probability level chosen by the two parties prior to testing. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results with consideration to the known bias.1.1 This test method describes the measurement of fiber cohesion as the force required to cause initial drafting in a bundle of fibers in sliver and top. The observed cohesive force required to separate the fibers is converted to cohesive tenacity based on the linear density of the specimen.NOTE 1: For determination of fiber cohesion in dynamic tests, refer to Test Method D4120.1.2 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. Inch-pound units appear in parentheses for information only.1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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4.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.(A) More than one method can be used to measure these properties. These methods cannot be used interchangeably since there can be no overall correlation between them (see Note 2, Note 3, and Note 7).(B) AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.(C) AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.(D) AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.(E) It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained by standard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades that contain a combination of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may not show the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is, therefore, recommended that the staining results obtained by these tests not be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.4.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller.4.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3655 except for the following characteristic(s).4.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.4.4 The uses and significance of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified test methods.1.1 This performance specification covers men's and women's sliver knitted overcoat and jacket fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture of textile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to knitted fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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5.1 Assigning a value to any property of the material in a container or in a lot, consignment, or delivery involves a measurement process that includes both sampling and testing procedures. The correctness of the value assigned depends upon the variability due to testing. Even when the variability due to testing is minimized by carefully developed procedures, correct and consistent estimates of the true value of the property are possible only when the sampling procedure avoids systematic bias, minimizes variations due to sampling, and provides a laboratory sample of adequate size.5.2 This practice may not give the most efficient sampling plan that might be devised in special situations but it does present a general procedure that gives satisfactory precision with an economical amount of sampling and one which does not require elaborate statistical computation based on previous knowledge of the amount of variation between lot samples, between laboratory samples, and between test specimens.5.3 The smallest number of specimens required for a given variability in the average result will usually be obtained by (1) minimizing the number of shipping units in the lot sample, (2) taking one of the shipping units in the laboratory sample, and (3) taking the prescribed specimen(s) from the selected laboratory sample shipping unit. (See 7.3 and 7.4.)5.4 To minimize the cost of sampling a lot of material, it is necessary to agree on the required variance for the reported average for a lot of material:5.4.1 Estimate the variance due to lot samples, the variance due to laboratory samples, and the variance due to test specimens.5.4.2 Calculate the total variance for the average test results for several combinations of the number of lot samples, the number of laboratory samples per lot sample, and the number of test specimens per laboratory sample.5.4.3 Calculate the cost of performing each of the sampling schemes considered in 5.4.2.5.4.4 Select the sampling scheme that (1) has the required precision, and (2) is most economical to perform.1.1 This practice covers a procedure for the division of shipments of manufactured staple fiber, sliver (or top) or tow into lots and the sampling of such lots for testing.NOTE 1: For sampling yarns, refer to Practice D2258.NOTE 2: This practice differs from BISFA2 rules for staple fibers in the lot sampling, by the elimination of separate sampling of outer versus inner container areas, in the reduction of number of strata from 6 to 5, and by the elimination of compositing to obtain a single laboratory sample for the lot when testing properties which do not depend on as-received moisture content.1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.1.3 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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5.1 This test method is not recommended for acceptance testing due to its poor between-laboratory precision. In some cases the purchaser and the seller may have to test a commercial shipment of one or more specific materials by the best available method even though the method has not been recommended for acceptance testing of commercial shipments. In such a case, if there is a disagreement arising from differences in values reported by the purchaser and the seller when using this method for acceptance testing, the statistical bias, if any, between the laboratory of the purchaser and the laboratory of the seller should be determined with each comparison being based on testing specimens randomly drawn from one sample of material of the type being tested.5.2 A knowledge of the average length and length distribution of fibers is important to fiber processors. This method is useful for inplant control testing and for research purposes.1.1 This test method covers the estimation of the average fiber length and length distribution of wool in nonparallel assemblies, such as scoured wool, and in card sliver.1.2 This test method is applicable to many fibers other than wool if in the form of a nonparallel assembly or in a card sliver.1.3 This test method is not applicable to unscoured wool or to wool top.1.4 This test method specifically requires length in inches and mass in metric units, and is not contrary to ASTM policy. The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as the standard. The information in parentheses is for information only.Note 1—The determination of staple length of grease wool is covered in Method D1234, Sampling and Testing Staple Length of Grease Wool,2 and the average length of fibers in wool top is covered in Test Method D519.1.5 This standard does not purport to address the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

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