【国外标准】 Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams

4.1 Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitch type, seam configuration, and thread type which should be used for a particular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge of many variables. The improper selection of any one component can result in failure of the sewn junction, and ultimately failure of the product manufactured.4.2 General Characteristics—The characteristics of a properly constructed sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability, security, and appearance. These characteristics must be balanced with the properties of the material to be joined to form the optimum sewn seam. The end use of the item will govern the relative importance of these characteristics. The selection of the seam type and stitch type should be based upon these considerations.4.2.1 Strength—The seam efficiency of the sewn seam should be as high as possible. This will produce sewn seam strength with a balanced construction that will withstand the forces encountered in the use of the sewn item. The elements affecting the strength of a sewn seam are:4.2.1.1 Fabric type and strength,4.2.1.2 Seam type,4.2.1.3 Stitch type,4.2.1.4 Stitch density (spi),4.2.1.5 Thread tension, and4.2.1.6 Thread strength.4.2.2 Elasticity—The elasticity of a sewn seam should be slightly greater than that of the material which it joins. This will enable the material to support its share of the forces encountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. The elasticity of a sewn seam depends upon:4.2.2.1 Fabric type and strength,4.2.2.2 Seam type,4.2.2.3 Stitch type,4.2.2.4 Stitch density (spi),4.2.2.5 Thread tension, and4.2.2.6 Thread elasticity.4.2.3 Durability—The durability of a sewn seam depends largely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seam and the elasticity of the material. However, in less elastic, tightly woven or dense materials, there is a tendency for the plies to “work” or slide on each other. To form a durable sewn seam in these types of fabrics, the thread size must be carefully chosen. The stitch density also needs to be carefully determined for the material so as not to cause excess tension which will unbalance the elasticity and cause puckering. It is also important to minimize abrasion and wear by contact with outside agencies to promote durability.4.2.4 Security—The security of a sewn seam depends chiefly upon the stitch type, spi, and its susceptibility to become unraveled. The stitch must be well set to the material to prevent snagging that can cause rupture of the thread and unraveling of certain stitch types.4.2.5 Appearance—The appearance of a sewn seam generally is governed by the proper relationship between the size and type of thread, the stitch density, and the texture and weight of the fabric.4.2.5.1 In addition to these general characteristics, the technique and skill of the sewing machine operators also govern the appearance of the sewn seams. Some of the factors which will adversely affect the appearance are shown in Table 1.1.1 This practice covers the requirements and characteristics of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the fabrication of sewn items.1.3 Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seams that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the following sections that are listed in the order in which they appear:1.3.1 Section 5—Classification of Stitch Types for which drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69,FIG. 1 Stitch Type 101NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread that shall be passed through the material and interlooped with itself on the undersurface of the material.FIG. 2 Stitch Type 102NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads A and A′. Both threads shall be passed through the material and thread A′ shall be interlooped with itself and with thread A.FIG. 3 Stitch Type 103NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall interloop with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread shall be passed through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth.FIG. 4 Stitch Type 104NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall interloop with itself on the undersurface of the material.FIG. 5 Stitch Type 105NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through the top ply of material and through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth, on either side of a center line. The thread shall interloop with itself on the surface of the material at the center line.FIG. 6 Stitch Type 201NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A′, which shall be passed through the material in the same perforations from opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping.FIG. 7 Stitch Type 202NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material brought forward two stitch lengths, passed back through the material and brought back one stitch length before being passed through the material a third time.FIG. 8 Stitch Type 203NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material from the underside and immediately passed back through the same perforation to form a loop on the surface of the material. The needle shall be advanced one stitch length, passed through the material and the loop and immediately passed back through the loop and the same needle perforation, and a new loop shall be formed to receive the succeeding stitch.FIG. 9 Stitch Type 204NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material and brought back one stitch length and then passed back up through the material. The needle shall be moved diagonally across the material and forward one stitch length, passed through the material, brought back one stitch length and again passed to the surface of the material. This process shall be repeated to form a crisscross pattern of stitches on the surface and parallel rows of separated and off-set stitches on the underside of the material.FIG. 10 Stitch Type 205NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one or more needle threads and has for a general characteristic that the thread does not interloop with itself or any other thread or threads. The thread is passed completely through the material by means of a double pointed center eye needle and returned by another path. This class of stitch simulates hand stitching.FIG. 11 Stitch Type 301NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. A loop of thread A shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. Thread A shall be pulled back so that the interlacing shall be midway between surfaces of the material or materials being sewn.FIG. 12 Stitch Type 302NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.FIG. 13 Stitch Type 303NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: three needle threads, A and A′ and A″, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′ and A″ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.FIG. 14 Stitch Type 304NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is exactly the same as stitch type 301 except that successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.FIG. 15 Stitch Type 305NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B and the interlacing shall be left on the underside of the material. Successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.FIG. 16 Stitch Type 306NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the top ply of material and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth and shall be interlaced with thread B on the top surface of the bottom ply of material.FIG. 17 Stitch Type 307NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads: four needle threads, A, A′, A″, A′″, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′, A″, A′″, shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.FIG. 18 Stitch Type 308NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is the same as stitch type 304 except that successive pairs of stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.FIG. 19 Stitch Type 309NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be left on the underside of the material.FIG. 20 Stitch Type 310NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B, and the interlacings shall be left on the underside of the material. Successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.FIG. 21 Stitch Type 311NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. Threads A and A′ shall be pulled back so that the interlacings shall be midway between surfaces of the material or materials being sewn.FIG. 22 Stitch Type 312NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is exactly the same as stitch type 311 except that successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.FIG. 23 Stitch Type 313NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed horizontally through portions of both plies of material without penetrating the full depth, and shall be interlaced with thread B on the top of the material.FIG. 24 Stitch Type 314NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the top ply of material and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating the full depth and shall be interlaced with thread B on the top of the material.FIG. 25 Stitch Type 315NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is the same as stitch type 304 except that successive groups of three stitches form a symmetrical zig-zag pattern.FIG. 26 Stitch Type 316NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one continuous needle thread, which after the first needle penetration is divided into two parts: part one, needle thread A, and one reel thread, A′. In subsequent penetrations thread A is passed through the material and interlaced with thread A. Thread A shall be pulled up so that the interlacing is midway between the surfaces of the material or materials being sewn. This stitch type is identical to stitch type 301 except for the initial stitch.FIG. 27 Stitch Type 401NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the bottom ply of material.FIG. 28 Stitch Type 402NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads A and A′ and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the material.FIG. 29 Stitch Type 403NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: three needle threads, A, A′ and A″ and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′ and A″ shall be passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the material.FIG. 30 Stitch Type 404NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. This stitch is the same as stitch type 401 except that successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.FIG. 31 Stitch Type 405NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. This stitch is the same as stitch type 402 except that successive stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.FIG. 32 Stitch Type 406NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′ and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the material.FIG. 33 Stitch Type 407NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: three needle threads A, A′, and A″ and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′, and A″ shall be passed through the material and shall be drawn against the underside of the material.FIG. 34 Stitch Type 408NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads: four needle threads A, A′, A″, and A′ ″; and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′, A″ , and A′ ″ shall pass through the material where they shall be interlooped with the loops of thread B on the underside.FIG. 35 Stitch Type 409NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle threads A, and one looper thread, B. This stitch is the same as stitch type 404, except that successive groups of three stitches form a symmetrical chainstitch zig zag pattern.FIG. 36 Stitch Type 410NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads A, and A′, and two looper threads, B and B′. This stitch is the same as stitch type 409 , except two successive groups of three stitches form a symmetrical chainstitch zig zag pattern.FIG. 37 Stitch Type 411NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with six threads: five needle threads A, A′, A″, A′ ″; and A″ ″; one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′, A″, A′ ″; and A″ ″ shall pass through the material where they shall be interlooped with the loops of thread B on the underside.FIG. 38 Stitch Type 501NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through and around the edge of the material as a loop and interlooped with itself at the point of needle penetration of the stitch on the surface of the material.FIG. 39 Stitch Type 502NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the material and interlooped with thread B at the point of penetration on the underside of the material. Loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge of the material and interlooped with thread A at the next stitch on the surface of the material.FIG. 40 Stitch Type 503NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the material and brought to the edge where they shall be interlooped with thread B. The loops of thread B shall be extended from this interlooping to the point of needle penetration of the next stitch and there interlooped with thread A.FIG. 41 Stitch Type 504NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: one needle thread, A; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the material and interlooped with loops of thread B at the point of penetration on the underside of the material. The loops of thread B shall be extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of thread C. Loops of thread C shall be extended from this interlooping to the point of needle penetration of the next stitch and there interlooped with thread A.FIG. 42 Stitch Type 505NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: one needle thread, A; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the material and extended to the edge where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread B. The loops of thread B shall be brought up to the top edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of the next stitch and there interlooped with thread A.FIG. 43 Stitch Type 506NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A′; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and the loops of thread A shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of the loops of thread A′. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be interlooped with loops of thread B at this point. The loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge of the material and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of threads A and A′, where they shall be entered by the next stitch of those threads.FIG. 44 Stitch Type 507NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A′; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and the loops of thread A shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of the loops of thread A′. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be interlooped with loops of thread B at this point. The loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of thread A′ at the next stitch where they shall be entered by loops of that thread.FIG. 45 Stitch Type 508NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material where they shall be interlooped at the lower point of penetration with thread B. Loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge of the material and interlooped with thread A′ at the next stitch on the surface of the material.FIG. 46 Stitch Type 509NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material where they shall be interlooped at the lower point of penetration with loops of thread B. Loops of thread B shall be brought around and cast on the surface of the material where they shall be entered by loops of threads A and A′.FIG. 47 Stitch Type 510NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A′, which shall be passed through and around the edge to the surface of the material as loops and interlooped with thread A′ at the point of needle penetration.FIG. 48 Stitch Type 511NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A′. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material, brought around the edge and cast on the upper surface where they shall be entered by loops of themselves at the point of needle penetration of the next stitch.FIG. 49 Stitch Type 512NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A′; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material where they shall be interlooped at the lower point of penetration with thread B. The loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of thread A′ at the next stitch where they shall be entered by loops of that thread.FIG. 50 Stitch Type 513NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through the material as a loop and brought to the edge, where it shall be passed through a loop formed by the previous stitch and a loop which has been drawn across the upper surface of the material.FIG. 51 Stitch Type 514NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A′; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material where they shall be interlooped at the lower point of penetration with lops of thread B. The loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge of the material and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of threads A and A′ at the next stitch where they shall be entered by loops of these threads.FIG. 52 Stitch Type 515NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch 401 a specified distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 503 on the edge of the material.FIG. 53 Stitch Type 516NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch type 401 a specified distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 504 on the edge of the material.FIG. 54 Stitch Type 517NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch type 301 a specified distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 504 on the edge of the material.FIG. 55 Stitch Type 518NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch type 301 a specified distance from the edge, and one row of stitch type 503 on the edge of the material.FIG. 56 Stitch Type 519NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch type 401 a specified distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 602 on the edge of the material.FIG. 57 Stitch Type 520NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously sewing two rows of stitch type 401 a specified distance apart and a specified distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 602 on the edge of the material.FIG. 58 Stitch Type 521NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material, brought around the edge of the material and interlaced there with thread B. The loops of thread B shall be extended from this interlacing to the points of needle penetration of threads A and A′ where they shall be entered by the next stitch of those threads.FIG. 59 Stitch Type 522NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A1; one looper thread, B and one looper thread C. Loops of thread A and A1 shall be interlooped at the lower point of penetration with thread B. The loops of thread A1 and B shall be brought around the edge and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C shall be extended to the next stitch where they shall be entered by loops of that thread.FIG. 60 Stitch Type 601NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads; two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material where they shall be interlooped with thread B on the underside. Loops of thread A′ shall be extended across the material to the point of needle penetration of the next stitch of thread A where they shall be entered by a loop of that thread as it enters the fabric to make the next stitch.FIG. 61 Stitch Type 602NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A′; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through loops of thread C already cast across the top surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread B on the underside.FIG. 62 Stitch Type 603NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads: two needle threads, A and A′; one looper thread, B; and two cover threads, C and C′. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through loops of threads C and C′ already cast across the surface of the material and then through the material and interlooped with loops of thread B on the underside of the material.FIG. 63 Stitch Type 604NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with six threads: three needle threads, A, A′ and A″; one looper thread, B; and two cover threads, C and C′. Loops of threads A, A′ and A″ shall be passed through loops of threads C and C′ already cast across the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with thread B on the underside.FIG. 64 Stitch Type 605NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads: three needle threads, A, A′, and A″; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A, A′, and A″ shall be passed through loops of thread C already cast on the top surface of the material and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread B on the underside.FIG. 65 Stitch Type 606NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with nine threads: four needle threads, A, A′, and A″, and A′″; four looper threads, B, B′, B″, and B′″; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A, A′, A″, and A′″ shall be passed through loops of thread C already cast on the top surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of the B threads on the underside as follows: A and A′ with B; A′ and A″ with B′ and B″; A″ and A′″ with B′″.FIG. 66 Stitch Type 607NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with six threads: four needle threads, A, A′, A″, and A′″; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A, A′, A″, and A′″ shall be passed through loops of thread C already cast on the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread B on the underside.FIG. 67 Stitch Type 608NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads: two needle threads, A and A′; two looper threads, B and B ′; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through loops of thread C cast across the top surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread B and B ′on the underside.FIG. 68 Stitch Type 609NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with seven threads: three needle threads, A, A′, and A″; three looper threads, B, B′, and B″; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A, A′, and A″ shall pass through loops of thread C cast on the top surface of the material and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of threads B, B′, and B″ on the underside.FIG. 69 Stitch Type 610NOTE 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with seven threads: five needle threads, A, A′, A′ ″, and A″ ″; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A, A′, A′ ″, and A″ ″ shall be passed through loops of thread C cast on the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread B on the underside.1.3.2 Section 6—Classification of Seam Types for which drawings are shown in Seam Figs. 70-288, andFIG. 70 Seam Type SSaNOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two or more plies of material and seaming them with one or more rows of stitches a specified distance from their edges.FIG. 71 Seam Type SSbNOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two plies of material, turning in the edge of one ply a specified distance to the inside and seaming the plies with one or more rows of stitches.FIG. 72 Seam Type SScNOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two plies of material, turning the edges of both plies a specified distance to the inside and seaming through the turned edges with one or more rows of stitches a specified distance from the edges.FIG. 73 Seam Type SSd-1NOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two plies of material, turning the edge of both plies a specified distance outwardly and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.FIG. 74 Seam Type SSeNOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge, (seam type SSa-1), and(b) turning both plies of material at the first seaming to cover the raw edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through the folded edges.FIG. 75 Seam Type SSf-3NOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, a specified distance from the edge (Seam Type SSa-1), and(b) opening both plies of the material and seaming a reinforcing tape over the raw edges of the material with two rows of stitches a specified distance apart.FIG. 76 Seam Type SSh-2NOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, a specified distance from the edge (Seam Type SSa-1), and(b) opening the plies of material and sewing with a row of covering stitches over the trimmed edges.FIG. 77 Seam Type SSj-1NOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two or more plies of material, inserting a plain narrow strip of material between and seaming with one or more rows of stitches a specified distance from the near edge.FIG. 78 Seam Type SSk-1NOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by inserting a folded strip of material, with or without a cord as specified, between two superimposed plies of material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.FIG. 79 Seam Type SSl-1NOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing one ply of material on another a sufficient distance from the edge to permit turning the edge of one ply of the material under and in, a specified distance around the edge of the other ply, and seaming with one row of stitches.FIG. 80 Seam Type SSm-1NOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two or more plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches in such a manner that the thread passes only partially through the thickness of the last or outer ply. The thread shall not show on the outer side of the last ply unless otherwise specified.FIG. 81 Seam Type SSn-1NOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two or more plies of material, folding both the edges back over the body of material a specified distance and seaming with one row of stitches.FIG. 82 Seam Type SSp-1NOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two or more plies of material, turning the edges back over the body of material and in, under that fold a specified distance, and seaming with one row of stitches.FIG. 83 Seam Type SSqNOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by:(a) superimposing three or more plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge (seam type SSa-1), and(b) turning the two outer plies back over their edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.FIG. 84 Seam Type SSr-1NOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two plies of material, turning the edge of one ply of material and seaming through the turned edge and plies of material with one row of stitches.FIG. 85 Seam Type SSsNOTE 1: This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a tape, webbing or narrow piece of fabric over the turned edge of a ply or plies of material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through the turned edge.FIG. 86 Seam Type SStNOTE 1: This t